A technique where fabric shapes are cut and sewn onto a fabric block or quilt top. Typically a fusible material is ironed to the back of the shape, and then ironed to the fabric. There are many types of applique.
Needle turned: this involves hand work where you use a needle to turn the edge under and then hand stitch in place.
Raw edge applique: A technique used to fuse your shape to fabric, then you use a decorative stitch to adhere it to your quilt block.
Applique is used to embellish or create interest to a block or quilt.
Place the rough side of the interfacing against the right side of the fabric, stitch around your applique, cut a slit through the interfacing only, and turn the applique right side out. This causes the edges to be finished, and the fusible side of the interfacing (the right side of your fabric as well) to be on the outside of your shape. Iron this to your background, then zig-zag, use one of those cute fancy stitches on your machine, or hand stitch one of your own fun stitches to the applique background.
A quilt consists of three layers. The quilt top is either pieced or a single piece of fabric, the next layer is batting, and the bottom layer of a quilt is a piece of fabric that is generally 3 inches longer on all sides, this allows for quilting on a long arm machine (It’s best to check with your long arm quilter for their preference on this measurement).
Backing fabric can be a single piece of extra wide backing fabric or a fabric of your choice which will be sewn together to the size needed. Some quilters like to piece their entire backing, always allowing for the 3 extra inches on all sides of their quilt.
Example: if a quilt top measures 60" x 60" the backing and batting should measure at least 66" × 66".
The following are a list of quilt sizes:
*Comforters cover the mattress and not the box springs and generally don't have
a pillow tuck.
*Coverlets cover the mattress and box spring and generally have a pillow tuck.
*Bedspreads cover the bed to almost the floor and have a pillow tuck.
*Drop hangs over the edge of the mattress on 3 sides.
*Tuck folds under the pillow.
Freezer paper is that wonderful stuff you can find in your grocers storage aisle along with Ziploc bags and foil wrap. One side is paper and the other has a light coating of a plastic which melts like wax when you iron it. To adhere it to fabric, place the wax side down on the wrong side of the fabric, then use a medium iron to adhere it to the fabric.
Using Freezer paper in quilting: To use Freezer Paper in quilting, trace quilting design onto dull side of freezer paper, cut it out and iron shiny side onto the fabric. Cut out the fabric around the design, allowing 1/4" seam allowance. Fold the fabric seam allowance under the freezer paper and stitch the applique onto the background fabric. Pull out the freezer paper through a small area left unstitched.
There are several methods of freezer paper appliqué:
Draw your motif on the dull side, cut it out and iron it to the top of the appliqué piece. As you are appliquéing, you tuck the fabric under the appliqué piece, then peel off the freezer paper. You can usually reuse this piece several times.
You can also draw your motif on the dull side in reverse. Iron the freezer paper to the wrong side of the appliqué piece. You appliqué as above, but just before you get to the end, you remove the freezer paper with a pair of tweezers.
Or, you can iron the freezer paper to the wrong side of the appliqué piece then iron the fabric over the edges, giving you a crisp edge to appliqué. Remove the paper before doing so.
Freezer paper can also be used for paper piecing.
Freezer paper templates are great for hand sewing, too. For example, you can use them to make Grandmothers Flower Garden blocks. Print a sheet of hexagons on freezer paper, cut them apart and iron them to the wrong side of your appliqué piece. Iron the edges over the freezer paper. Now you will have a nice sharp edge for whip stitching. For stability, leave the freezer paper in until you are done but be careful not to catch the thread in the paper.
Freezer paper can be run through your ink jet printer (not a laser printer!) if you would like to print several motifs at once. Set your printer to accept heavy paper, and feed the sheets one at a time. To keep it from curling, you can cut it a day or two ahead of time and put it under something heavy to flatten it. If you are in a hurry, you can iron it flat (shiny side down) on a Teflon pressing sheet, or iron it to a piece of copy paper and put the combination through your printer. Ironing two pieces together may work, too. It's best to pull them apart while they are warm.
Freezer paper can also help you to print on fabric. For example, if you would like to personalize your labels, you can iron your freezer paper to the wrong side of the fabric, cut it to just shy of 8 ½" x 11" so stray threads don’t get caught in the printer, and print your labels on the fabric. The freezer paper gives the fabric just enough body to go through the printer as if it were a piece of paper.
To make attaching your labels even easier, use basting spray to adhere the fabric to the shiny side of the freezer paper. When you pull them apart, the fabric will remain just slightly sticky which will help keep it in place when you sew. You can also use the muslin/freezer paper combination to make a fabric foundation for foundation piecing, too.